(Including recommendations for use in hilly Sheffield)
Electric bikes (e-bikes) explained.
November 2019 edition.Note: As this field is developing so rapidly, I continually update this article, so always click on http://www.sheffieldcycleroutes.org/e-bikes before you read on for the most up to date version.
- So what exactly is an ‘e-bike’?
- Why might I think of using an e-bike? What advantages do they have?
- Is it still a bicycle?
- So what isn’t a (legal) e-bike?
- What type of e-bike will suit my needs? (Incl lighter models)
- But what about the cost? – how much should I pay, and how might I finance it?
- Which type of electric drive system should I go for – Hub or Mid drive? And how powerful does it need to be for my needs?
- What sort of gears do I need for Sheffield, and how should I use them on an e-bike?
- What sort of batteries do e-bikes have? – How far will it take me?
- How do I Charge and take care of my Battery?
- What Accessories do I need?
- How do I keep it secure?
- How should I care for/maintain my e-bike?
- Will I need Insurance or Tax to use my e-bike?
- Do I have to wear special cycle gear?
- Should I arrange some training?
- Where can I go on my e-bike, and who with? (including using trains)
- Where would I find out more/see reviews about e-bikes?
- Where to see/hire/try/buy e-bikes in Sheffield and beyond.
- Recommended e-bikes for use in Sheffield.
- Servicing and repairs locally.
This article gives a general explanation and overview of e-bikes and their useage and describes the range of e-bikes available for different purposes, with particular reference to everyday e-biking and cycling resources generally in the hilly Sheffield area. Here, like the trams, a more powerful than average motor system will serve you best.
After 6 yrs of everyday ‘utility’ transportation on a few different e-bikes in Sheffield, my partner and I have two bottom Line recommendations:
– Buy an e-bike that is powerful, efficient, reliable and pleasant to ride. You will enjoy and really want to ride such a bike, and you will find yourself putting it to good and maybe everyday use.
– Consider buying locally if at all possible, so you have expert advice and good after sales backup and servicing on your doorstep.
Experience suggests that for an e-bike that ticks the above boxes in and around hilly Sheffield you will need to spend either side of £2000.
Yes – that sounds a lot for ‘a bicycle’, but don’t switch off here – we really need now to be thinking of e-bikes in the same ‘transportation costings’ bracket as cars, buses, taxis etc, rather than relative to ‘normal’ (unassisted) bikes.
An e-bike replaces a car, not another bicycle.
This is because you will find yourself using a good one to do many of the journeys you are currently spending a lot of money on in terms of fuel and running costs, parking charges, or bus, tram and train fares etc.
Think of e-bikes like this and they stack up very well – and even as you are recouping the initial outlay, your quality of life will be greatly enhanced!
Of course the relatively high cost is an issue, and studies such as Shared Electric Bike Programme which has included a scheme in Rotherham offer possibilities for getting to use an e-bike without the cost of purchase.
If you decide to buy your own, consider taking up a dealer finance offer (sometimes 0%), use one of the Cycle to Work type schemes (see below), or use your own finance options to fund a good quality purchase, or get together and buy shares in a ‘multi-user’ one.
More details on purchasing in section 6 below.
- So what exactly is an ‘e-bike’?
E-bikes – ‘EAPC’s (Electrically Assisted Pedal Cycles) or ‘Pedelecs’ come in as many variations as ordinary bikes, and you will find different types des ribed as you read. The type we use for utility and leisure duties around town are essentially just sturdy everyday upright sitting position bicycles built around an electric motor, battery and controller.
You still need to pedal, so it feels just like a ‘normal’ bike, but on e-bike systems, inbuilt sensors detect when and how much you push on the pedal and then the level of electrical motor power you have pre-selected is automatically added to your efforts, and on a good quality e-bike you have complete control over the amount of assistance and speed at all times. Normally you can choose from 3 or 4 levels of assistance, or indeed none if you like, eg if you are running low on battery, or just want a workout.
Under UK law that assistance has to electronically cut out above 15.5mph, but you can then pedal faster than that under your own power, just as on a normal unassisted bike.
In practice the 30% or so extra weight of the motor, battery, accessories etc, at least in the case of the Utility focussed bikes, means you mostly find yourself happily bowling along at a nicely assisted 10-15mph, making e-bikes ideal for local/urban transport and commuting.
2. Why might I think of using an e-bike? What advantages do they have?
Convenience: e-biking is a great Active Travel option in hilly, traffic choked cities like Sheffield, where they achieve good average speeds as you are not slowed down by hills. Such journeys, on e-bikes, can be quicker door to door than other transport options.
Confidence: You feel more confident on the road than when riding unassisted bikes, having the power and presence to be more part of the traffic flow, and e-bike users notice that even the odd bout of ‘weather’ doesn’t feel as discouraging as it usually does.
Better Route Choices: e-bike power flattens hills and shrinks distances, giving you wider route choices. You can choose to avoid busy polluted main routes and streets whenever you wish, regardless of distance and terrain. You will be pleasantly surprised at how much of your journey in and around your area and the city can be done on dedicated cycle routes/lanes, via parks and quiet back roads you may currently be unaware of, minimising the time you spend in or near traffic choked roads and rat runs.
Health: Statistically you live longer in better health due to cardiac exercise. Research says you breathe in less pollution cycling in traffic than when sitting in a vehicle.
Note: You have full control over the amount of assistance you want as you pedal, from none, if you want a good workout, through various levels right up to the sometimes very welcome ‘ just get me home its been a long day’ setting! Its up to you.
You can carry lots of stuff – and even your kids to school! We are starting to see UK parents get the continental habit of cycling to school with their children, knowing that they both gain the health benefits, and are one less polluting car queuing up to park near the school. They will either cycle with them, or increasingly seat them on or in their purpose built Cargo type bike that they also use as general urban transport for a big shop or stuff that would previously have needed a car boot. (eg Tern GSD , Riese + Muller Multicharger, Urban Arrow or similar ‘box in front’ style cargo bikes such as these at the Dutch Cargo Bike shop or by Cube which safely and legally carry two young children).
Equality: e-bikes give everyone the legs, lungs and confidence to get around their neighbourhood under their own steam, whether previously bike users or not, and lend regular cyclists a bit of assistance to help deal with the challenges arising with age or injury. They can still do that cycle tour or keep up with mates on the Derbyshire day ride. For some people, having assistance might simply mean the difference between being able to use a bike or not. I have a previously non cycling friend with a chronic back condition and asthma who recently achieved a 100 mile e-bike ride on his local lanes and trails! Cyclists, journalists, and even normal people have a tendency to get a bit polarised around ‘e-bike v proper bike’ debates – in fact it’s just Horses for Courses – use an unassisted bike when it suits your purpose/ability, and then an e-bike when it is better suited to your journey or needs.
Fun: Often those who would not or cannot normally cycle any significant distance on an unassisted bike, if at all, now choose e-bikes for recreational rides up to 50 miles or more and love the feeling of easily getting out and exploring their local roads, cycle trails and bridleways, maybe even keeping up with their children and grandchildren!
Economy: After the initial outlay, the mile for mile cost of e-biking is favourable compared to other means of getting about, carrying you and any amount of shopping or stuff up to fifty miles or more, door to door, for just a few pence.
You don’t need to look like a ‘cyclist’: With electric assistance, you wear everyday clothing, plus waterproofs if needed, and arrive at your destination in a relaxed, non-sweaty state.
3. Is it still a bicycle?
Yes. Despite the welcome benefit of this assistance to waft you along, e-bikes are legally classed as bicycles, so you can use the many cycle-only cut throughs, cycle lanes, bus lanes and ‘shared use’ pavements to speed up your commute or shopping run, avoiding traffic queues and busy roads, and all with no parking hassles on arrival.
NB: The use of Cycle lanes is not mandatory in the UK, rather it is a choice if the cycle lane is convenient, safe to use and suits your needs, but do remember that you are a road user just like any other, so as long as it is safe to do so, cycle within the law and in accordance with the specific rules for cyclists in the Highway code . This will keep you and other road users safer and better tempered.
4. So what isn’t a (legal) e-bike?
The UK legal rated ‘nominal’ or ‘continuous power for one hour’ limit for a standard e-bike system (for public highway use) is 250 watts (peak power can be twice this or more – as much as a pro cyclist in fact!), and the maximum assisted speed allowed is 15.5mph. More than 250 watts nominal power or 15.5mph assisted speed and it ceases to be legally classed as a bicycle and effectively becomes a moped, requiring a relevant licence, vehicle registration, helmet wear, insurance etc, and penalties for illegal acts committed on such a bike would then apply to your vehicle licence.
In practice, all e-bikes sold by mainstream UK retailers for use on the public highway are legal, just be careful to check there has been no power or speed modifications if buying a used bike, or if buying a bike or a DIY system via the internet check that they meet legal requirements.
Speed or ‘S’ Pedelec e-bikes like this look the same as legal ones, but top out at 28mph due to more powerful motors and different gearing. You can buy one in the UK, but it needs to be registered/insured/taxed etc etc just like moped. Good article on this from e-bike tips here
5. What type of e-bike will suit my needs? (Incl lighter models)
Buy an e-bike that is powerful, efficient, reliable, feels manageable and pleasant to ride and is equipped for your purposes. Utility e-bikes are relatively heavy at 18 – 25 kg, but pricier ones have a better quality frame and cycle parts, and so are easier and more pleasant to ride with the assistance switched off or using lower levels of assistance when you choose to.
Consider the best frame type for your purposes. The ‘trapeze’ (see Cube bikes recommended below) or deeper ‘step through’ frame types are a great Unisex option for hopping on and off around town and tend to offer more adjustability of saddle height than the more usual ‘crossbar’ style frame, so better able to be adjusted for multiple users with different rider/saddle heights.
The deeper ‘Dutch style’ step through models (sometimes archaically marketed as Womens’ ) tend to have higher set handlebars and a more upright sitting position giving good control and visibility – ideal for urban duties, whatever your gender!
Our own small wheel ‘Butchers bike’ style Orbea ‘Katu’ is proving ideal for shared use by differing height riders who want a nimble, versatile ‘do it all’ urban e-bike that in most respects replaces a small car, including carrying a small car boot sized pile of shopping!
With models like the Tern GSD , Riese + Muller Multicharger and Urban Arrow you can even ferry the kids to school in comfort, or legally carry a passenger, besides a boot full of stuff or a Christmas tree…
e-bike power is particularly suitable for shifting heavy or bulky stuff in the guise of ‘Cargo’ bikes like the s-cargo that you can hire from Recycle bikes here in Sheffield, and delivery/hire schemes are sprouting up. Bosch have even produced an extra beefy motor for cargo bike duties.
|My new Cargo style bike carries 60kg of stuff, or a passenger!|
Lighter e-bikes anyone?
Not everyone needs or wants an e-bike just to do everyday utility duties, and an increasing number of manufacturers are offering much lighter weight Road (‘racing’) and Gravel (road+off road capable) bikes with Drop handlebars, or more upright seated Urban and fast commute bikes with flat handlebars.
These bikes are based on broadly similar frames, weigh around 12 – 16kg or so in total, rather than the 20 – 25kg of full fat e-bikes, and are kitted out with differing contact points (saddles/handlebars etc) and different gears, wheels and tyres to suit their purpose – be that fast road use, exploring tracks and bridleways or urban/commuter use respectively.
These lighter models offer you the possibility of choosing to cycle with low levels of assistance or just ‘as and when needed’ rather than dialling in meatier assistance as you are likely to do on a heavier e-bike, so achieving greater range than you might expect from their smaller, lighter batteries. All presently use either the innovative and strong (60Nm) Fazua removable ‘mid drive’ motor and battery system, or slightly less powerful (40Nm) Ebikemotion X35 ‘hub drive’ system.
Examples employing the Mid drive Fazua system include the Boardman range – great value and only 15.5 kg all up – so only 11kg ish if you opt to use it without the motor and battery – and with fittings for rack/mudguards, sturdy tyres, and a good gear range. Or check out the classy locally produced Forme Thorpe E Road .
Alternatively add a lightweight assistance system like the excellent Cytronex system added to your own favourite bike. The Cytronex system also features a more on demand ‘power-boost’ facility, rather than full time power, but with a ‘Hub drive’, this time in the front wheel.
Either way, with their smaller, lighter motors and batteries and absence of motor ‘drag’ present on mid motors when the motor is off, these systems can more easily be ridden without power, or with lower levels of assistance, extending the range per charge. Such bikes will suit moderately fit riders looking to extend their mileage/time out on the bike, and may also better suit older experienced cyclists looking for less overall weight and a judicious level of assistance as and when required.
An additional battery pack may be carried for a longer ride, and it is worth considering whether such a bike may be a good ‘e’ choice for touring, given that it will be more ‘portable’ when using cubicle style ‘hang up on a hook that won’t take larger tyres or wide handlebars’ train spaces, heaving it into B+B’s etc….. or even easier to carry/store at home if your storage ‘solution’ is a tricky one…
(For a good example of a longer ride on this type of e-bike see Laura-rides-lands-end-john-o-groats , incl a 120 mile day in 45mph headwinds!)
Hub drive models like the locally produced Juicy Roller offer a lighter and less expensive means of personal and leisure transport for less demanding duties and routes, but users can report that they do not feel as integrated/natural to ride.
Electrically assisted Mountain bikes (e-mtb’s) are also now popular, and whilst most retail models are road legal (ie 250watt motors) more powerful machines can be used off road on ‘private land’.
NB: Be aware that the few remaining older style e-bikes with batteries mounted between the seat post and the back wheel are a bit longer overall, so storage or using dedicated train spaces, lifts etc can be an issue.
6. But what about that (high) cost? – how much should I pay, and how might I finance it?
Just as with ordinary bikes, you should avoid cheaper ones as they tend to be underpowered, hard to ride and (usually the electrics) will let you down and it will end up abandoned in the shed.
Well made, reliable models like the hub drive EBCO UCR-20 start around £999, however this will only be sufficiently powerful for the flatter routes around the city.
£1500 – £2000+ will buy you a more natural feeling and efficient Mid drive e-bike with high quality parts and equipment, and it will have more oomph for utility work around hilly Sheffield. This is particularly important if you are heavy yourself, and/or loading up with stuff.
Whilst day to day running costs are miniscule compared to a vehicle, this is a significant initial outlay, so maybe have a spin at a trail centre to see how an e-bike feels, or borrow one for a trial period through the Govt/Council funded Cycleboost scheme, or hire one from a local bike shop to see if it meets your needs (see list below).
If you decide to buy and want to spread the costs so as to afford a good model, check out dealer’s payment schemes (sometimes 0%)
Check if your employer has signed up one of the Govt funded Cycle to Work (C2W) scheme providers To get a bike on the scheme, your employer needs to have signed up to a provider – such as the Cycle Scheme or Evans Cycles’ Ride to Work scheme. If you’re self-employed, you can make use of the scheme if you’re set up in a way which means you’re technically employed by your own limited company. Alternatively, you can buy the bike and claim the VAT back via the business.
The C2W scheme has worked really well for promoting the use of unpowered bikes, and the govt have recently removed the old £1000 upper limit, making the purchase of a good quality e-bike or one of the more costly cargo style bikes a reality.
Employers can also sign up to schemes with long payments times and high limits, such as the greencommuteinitiative .
7.Which type of electric motor system should I go for – a Hub motor (in one of the wheels) or a Mid motor (in the frame)? And how powerful does it need to be for my needs?
An e-bike consists of a bike with a fitted Battery, Controller and electric ‘engine’ – the Motor.
There are 2 main types of motor; either small electric motors in the front or rear wheels (Hub drive) and those with the electric motor positioned down in the frame and putting their power through the pedal axle (Mid drive) – this type of drive is also called Chain, Centre or Crank drive. Mid drives are generally more expensive as the bike is specifically built around the motor.
To help you decide which is best for you, consider what you want the bike for and where you are going to use it.
Our current e-bikes are the Mid drive type, and we use them as everyday transport for short, often well-loaded utility journeys to work, the shops, the allotment and for social visits in hilly Sheffield.
In our experience, and in the view of testers and users, the Mid drive type is much the best choice for utility use in hilly areas as the electric motor drives through the bikes gears as you pedal, so with the right gear selected the motor is kept running at its optimum speed and torque, and is using the power more effectively and efficiently, particularly on hills. Hub motors however are essentially ‘single geared’ and so as your and the wheel’s speed drops on hills so does the motor power and efficiency, and on longer climbs will become strained and even overheat. Good article on this here .
Torque = pulling/accelerating/climbing power, expressed in Newton metres – ‘Nm’. Legal 250w e-bike Hub and Mid drive motors can produce varying levels of torque. Hub drives produce around 30 – 60Nm, Mid drives 40Nm up to as much as 100Nm or more, similar to a Ford Fiesta! These levels are set by the manufacturer when the motor is built.
How Powerful? In our experience in hilly Sheffield, a rider using an e-bike for relatively light duties like commuting and is not themselves very heavy will manage most gradients with a bit of effort using a mid drive system delivering a minimum of 40 Nm of assistance. A heavier rider, particularly one using the bike’s potential to carry loads, will need a minimum of around 50 Nm. If you plan to really load up, tow a trailer, or would just prefer a really relaxed ride where your journey involves proper Sheffield hills, 60Nm upwards will serve you well.
You will often come across the strong and reliable Bosch range of Mid drive motors in its latest various iterations. The basic ‘Active Line’ offers modest power (40Nm) for general duties and leisure in flatter areas, the Active Line+ a bit more oomph (50Nm) for heavier/hillier utility use, and the Performance Line/Performance Line CX (65 and 75 Nm) for heavy duty use/super relaxed riding in and around Sheffield.
Note that these Bosch motors have different starting characteristics (from a standstill). Bosch describe the basic Active Line’s starting characteristics as ‘Harmonius’ – which in practice means gentle, and this can be an issue when trying to off on a Sheffield hill – particularly if you are loaded. The more powerful motors – Active+ and Performance, are programmed to offer progressively more ‘oomph’ straight away on your first push of the pedal, so making for an easier and safer getaway!
Shimano offer similarly rated and very efficient/reliable motors – currently for urban/tour use the e5000 (40Nm), e6000 (50Nm) and e61000 (60Nm), and for MTB’s the e7000 (60Nm) and e8000 (70Nm), however you might want to check if the ‘½ a turn of the cranks before the power comes in’ reviewers comment on suits you.
Giant utilize the proven Yamaha motor in both 60Nm and 80Nm formats to suit their urban and trekking style bikes, although the utility focussed ‘Entour’ models have the high mounted battery, and it appears you need to buy the premium ‘DailytourE+1’ model to get neccessary 8 hub gears for Sheffield.
Brose, TranzX and Bafang Crank drive motors are all capable and reliable.
These motors are found in premium models, along with high quality, reliable cycle parts, and all variants of 50Nm or more will be suitable for heavy duty/hilly use. Shimano even offer Di2 electronic gear operation as they try to woo a whole new cycle public.
There are moderately strong crank drive kits to convert your own bike, e.g Bafang motor powered kits from such as Woosh bikes, electric-bike-conversions , Panda , but these wont offer the same experience of integration as the major systems.
Note 1. All the above Mid drive motors offer a degree of ‘motor drag’ – that is because you are pedalling ‘via’ the motor, and so you are turning the internal cogs and widgets of the engine even when the assistance is switched off. Of course this is irrelevant when you are using the power, but it does mean you will find yourself having to make a bit more effort than on an unassisted bike (or one of the lighter ‘on demand’ powered bikes described in section 5 above) if you are pedalling with the power off, ie over the 15.5mph legal assistance cut-off point, or if you have switched off to try and eke out the battery.
Note 2. Although often assumed, in real life there seems to be no real gain from the odd model such as the Elby that ‘regenerates’ electric as you freewheel, all of which are Hub drive anyway.
8. What sort of gears do I need for Sheffield, and how should I use them on an e-bike?
Like normal bikes, e-bikes either have enclosed low maintenance ‘Hub’ type gears in the back wheel (handy because you can change gears at a standstill) or open derailleur gears. Cheaper bikes have 7 speeds, up to 11 on more expensive models. With the exception of the Yamaha motor, they all have just a single front chainwheel, as the electrical assistance obviates the need for lots of gears.
Both gear types are fine if properly serviced, but either way a decent range of gears with a reasonably low first gear is needed in hilly areas.
So that is at least 8 gears for a Derailleur model, and minimum 8 for a hub geared model.
Derailleur gears wise an 11-32 range cassette (rear gear cluster) is Sheff minimum for a derailleur model, an 11-34/36 cassette will make life considerably easier on hills for or even 11-42/46 for a really good gear range to tackle hills in comfort. Hub gear wise Shimano ‘Nexus’ 8 speed is ok for Sheff, but not the 7 speed which will be hard work. Shimano’s ‘Alfine’ 8 speed is the best hub – same gearing as Nexus but stronger for e-bike/more user friendly. (An Alfine 11 speed is also available on a few expensive models.)
It is important to use the gears sympathetically and change down to lower gears when loaded, on hills or cycling against a headwind. This keeps your legs working at a reasonable lick, reducing strain on the motor, just as you would on an unassisted bike when you are making life easier for your own leg/lung ‘motor’.
This makes the most of the battery power and maximises the mileage available from each charge.
9. What sort of batteries do e-bikes have? – How far will it take me?
e-bike’s Lithium-Ion batteries come in different sizes. Their size or capacity, and so how far they can take you, is expressed in Watt Hours (Wh), arrived at by multiplying the usual 36 volt electric motor x the number of Amp hours (Ah) the battery holds (So a 36 volt motor with a 10Ah battery makes for a 360Wh battery – ie: 36(v)x10(Ah) = 360Wh,
You consume around 5 – 20 of the batteries watts (Wh) for every mile you are cycling with power, depending on factors like your own weight, the weight you are carrying, how well maintained your bike is (especially the tyres being properly inflated), hills, wind direction and speed will all make a significant difference to the level of assistance you choose to select and therefore the amount of battery power you use and how far it will take you.
(You pedalling vigorously at energy hungry moments like accelerating or hill climbing will increase the range nicely.).
250Wh, 300Wh, 400Wh and 500Wh batteries are the most common sizes, and even bigger ones are becoming available.
So a battery will provide you with power for around 20 to 50+ miles, depending on its size, the assistance level chosen and how willing you are to cycle with the power off or on a low setting for the easier parts of the journey to eke out the battery.
You might choose to specify a larger Wh battery if available when buying to improve range/time between charges, but battery capacity is expensive, so having bigger batteries pushes up the overall price of the bike.
(Note that larger Wh batteries only means longer range, not more power or speed!)
10. How do I charge and take care of my battery?
Charging is via the portable mains charger and cable specifically supplied for your battery and is straightforward, just like your phone. The time taken varies, depending on the power of the charger, and ranges from 4 – 6 hrs for a full charge, but the good news is these batteries take charge fastest from low, so are 50-80% charged quite quickly if you need a top up. Most batteries can be charged on or off the bike, but charge best at around room temperature.
They will give their best if used and charged regularly, prefer to be working at between 1/4 to 3/4 of their capacity most of the time, and don’t like to be either flattened or left on charge for long once full.
If yours is going to be out of use for a good time the advice is to store it somewhere cool at around 1/2 charge and top it up just a little up every few weeks.
They are temperature sensitive, preferring to be parked in the shade rather than full sun if possible, and must never be allowed to freeze. (Something to bear in mind if your bike lives in a shed or parked out overnight anytime). Range drops with lower temperatures, so you might consider buying your battery a cosy Neoprene Jacket to maximize the range in colder weather (good for absorbing knocks too)
Lithium batteries, particularly cheaper ones, can pack up after a year or two at worst if misused (that includes not being used and left uncharged). More expensive ones should last for 5 years or longer if used fairly frequently and kept reasonably well charged, but all will gradually lose their capacity and therefore range as they are used and as they age.
11. What Accessories do I need?
Actually in our view these are essentials: Go for a bike all kitted out with a rear pannier rack, mudguards, a strong centre or side stand and ideally with good fitted LED lights powered by either the main battery or sometimes a front wheel dynamo. If these items are absent on your chosen model get some fitted at purchase, and get a pannier or two to go on the rear rack to make carrying stuff convenient, much safer than in a backpack.
12. How do I keep it secure?
This is an issue whatever we ride, but personally I try to hold with the view that, although it is my primary means of transport, it is just a bike, to be used whenever, and just locked up in a manner that really means it is too much trouble/risk to nick! That said, and whilst I haven’t checked the statistics on this, I suspect it may be worth considering what sort of e-bike you use in riskier areas like town centres – I think it is pretty evident that thieves, presented with a parked ‘boring’ Utility bike, and a sexy e-mtb, wil go for the latter, not least as it is possibly easier to sell on.
At the end of the day ours are insured on our house policy – other stand alone ones like ETA are available – might sound expensive but it is effectively my ‘car’ so what would I have to pay to insure that against theft?
I’m a big fan of the modern incarnation of the ‘nurses lock’ – the frame mounted lock that basically puts a bar through the wheel. These are standard on some models, and can be retrofitted if not. Choose one that has a plug in chain option and get a chain to suit – quick, flexible and convenient for every shop stop and a good start for longer stops, and given my bike and customary pannier contents weigh in at about 30kg it will be difficult to waltz off with if one wheel is locked. Something like the AXA-defender-rl-frame-lock
I also use a Sold secure Silver ‘main’ lock: Abus Steel-O-Flex/GRANIT-Steel-O-Flex-1000
Ok its not Gold security level, but I like that it is flexible and looks a bit of a monster to attack, and it is additional to the nurses lock.
So that’s 2 locks minimum!
If im leaving it in a ‘dodgy’ area or for a length of time I will also take a minimum 10mm thick link chain/padlock combo, something like the:Oxford-Chain10
So 3 locks in total! – basically enough to make a thief look for an easier option.
The good news is that being an e-bike, all this weight is not an issue, so you could even go for a motorbike type like the MAMMOTH-1-2M-SQUARE-CHAIN-LOCK
The experts say the best cycle lock is a sold secure Gold level D or U lock, (same thing), like the well known Kryptonite New York or good value Oxford equivalent, used in such a way it is hard to attack – all the lock filled by the frame/wheel/item you are locking too, off the ground, lock mechanism pointing down etc, like the Oxford-Shackle-14-Gold-Sold-Secure-U-Lock
As you can see these days you can buy a couple of really good locks for around £100, but all locks can be cut with an angle grinder, and I reckon the nurses lock adds a good degree of awkwardness in that case.
I also hold to the idea of parking it in a public, well lit place. Better still safely in the Hub at the main station if it’s anywhere near my destination. (Fob for life from Russell’s bike shop at station.)
Up to now there doesn’t seem to be a trend for trying to nick batteries, just as well as my Bosch one is £650 Minimum to replace, but it has a reasonably secure key locked mount, and the new ‘hidden’ tube type may be more secure still. Of course you could take it with you…….
Lastly I’m guessing most thefts are from home, where people who want to have watched it/you and your routine, so best advice is keep it indoors, or use a ground or wall-anchor in your Trimetals type secure bike store/shed/garage, and lock it to that with that super lock(s) you have.
13. How should I care for/maintain my e-bike?
The majority of the Care regime is just the same as a bike, ‘cos that’s what it is. So that means keeping the chain oiled, tyres inflated (to around 60psi is usual for a town bike), gears adjusted and brakes working correctly.
In addition, particularly during the warranty period, an e-bike will need at least an annual service with a shop/service centre accredited to work on your system. They will be able to check the system over and plug it in for a firmware update, just like a PC or Mobile phone operating system, ensuring it has the latest and most secure programmes.
Caution: Never use any sort of pressured water, even a hand sprayer or hose, when cleaning around the motor and battery. Why? Because electrics are, well, electrics, and the mechanical seals on even the best systems are only splash proof and won’t prevent water seeping into the the bearings around the pedal axle.
The good news is that bearing repair kits are becoming available, so if you do have an (out of warranty) issue you don’t have to go to the expense of a complete new motor.
14. Will I need Insurance or Tax to use my e-bike?
No, being classed as a bicycle, insurance of any kind is not a legal requirement for electric bikes. Saying that, 3rd party liability insurance isn’t a bad option for any road user. This may be a feature of any cycle Insurance you take out, and/or is a perk of the inexpensive membership of Cycling UK.
Membership of Cycling UK is strongly recommended for excellent cycling specific legal advice and support in the event of an incident, for reviews re bikes and gear etc, £10 million third party indemnity insurance, and significant discounts at major retailers such as Halfords. (So for example at the time of writing that could be £160 off a Carrera Crossfuse so well worth the £3.88 a month subscription.).
For insuring the bike cover itself, we have added cover via our house contents insurance at no additional cost, but this varies from company to company.
Separate dedicated and comprehensive e-bike cover is now available from lots of insurers, such as ETA which gives reassurance both when parked and also offering ‘rescue’ out on the road.
Being bicycles, and having no emissions, e-bikes do not need any sort of tax.
15. Do I have to wear special cycle gear?
No. Everyday clothing is fine, although a good cycle specific jacket will help on those occasions when you need weather protection, and they tend to be brightly coloured and reflective. We do however prioritise reasonably bright clothing and choose to have the inbuilt bright bike mounted lights switched on both day and night, a la Volvo. Hi-Viz wear is optional, but recommended at night.
Helmets: Being classed as a bicycle, helmet wearing is not mandatory on e-bikes, it is a matter of choice and is a judgement we personally make based on road and weather conditions.
16. Should I arrange some training?
Whilst not a legal requirement, a session or a course with a professional trainer will help most cyclists feel more confident and keep safe on the road, particularly those who have been away from cycling for a while, or learning for the first time. They will show you the correct positioning, signalling etc. Whether you just want to travel to the shop on a quiet backstreet or make a long commute along busy roads and junctions, they can show you straightforward techniques you can use to minimise the risks when cycling.
Local trainers Pedal Ready offer a range of free Road Confidence courses or one to one sessions specifically tailored to the use of e-bikes.
17. Where can I go on my e-bike, and who with? (Including using trains)
e-bikes give you the option of choosing the quietest and most pleasant routes around towns, regardless of the hills, and enable you to travel longer distances for leisure rides. Use your local council cycle map to discover these routes, ask a friend who cycles regularly to show you some, book a session with a local cycle trainer ie to show you a good commuter route to your workplace.
For local journeys and commuting ask if any members of your local cycle campaign group Cyclesheffield can recommend or show you routes. Both local and longer routes can be found on Sheffield Cycle Routes and Resources , or check out the local Cycling UK group.
Sheffield now has a dedicated e-biking leisure group you could join for rides.
Both for local route options and also for planning longer adventures see the Sustrans network’s excellent new OS based collaboration national cycle routes map , and try an AA style route planner like Cycle Streets for journeys near and far, or check out Google’s bicycle mapping and cycle planning.
A further smartphone option is an annual £19.99 subscription for the Ordnance Survey UK mapping, where you will find the major Sustrans cycle routes clearly marked on the Explorer series.
The Trans Pennine Trail has adopted a policy that welcomes e-bikes and is encouraging businesses alongside the trail to offer charging facilities.
Distance is no barrier -I recently met a 70 yr old who had just cycled from Lands End to John o’ Groats in less than 2 weeks using an everyday e-bike with no problem.
Trains: Widen your range, go all Inter-City, or give yourself a head start on a day ride by putting your bike on a train. Its free, but check on the National rail website whether the train operator you will be using requires you to book a bike space ahead or not. (Choose your train, click on ‘details’ at end of the line of text for that train, and then on the cycle symbol to find out the cycle policy for that train.) – see more info on this from Sustrans and Plusbike
For more info about bike-rail in Sheffield click here and do note that it can be awkward to get a heavy e-bike up on to those ‘hook you hang your bike off by the front wheel’ systems some trains have.
18. Where would I find out more/see reviews about e-bikes?
The e-bike market is opening up fast lately, and if you are curious about or considering buying an e-bike check out publications like eBikeTips , a very current online magazine often drawn upon in this article, A to B magazine , and online forums like Pedelecs. All offer general discussions about e-bikes, plus news and reviews of e-bikes.
19. Where to See, Hire, Try, and Buy e-bikes in Sheffield and beyond:
Several bike shops in our area are now hiring, selling and servicing e-bikes.
And city hire schemes are taking off:
Buying: (Don’t forget your Cycling UK 10% discount at Halfords)
Generally I would recommend that you really try to buy one from a localish dealer, and/or one who is a BEBA (British Electric Bike Association) member. The ‘e’ part of e-bikes can be complex, and you benefit from advice, follow up, warranty repairs and specialist service.
20. Recommended e-bikes for use in Sheffield and environs:
Mid-price choices locally could be something like the Raleigh Motus – the basic 40Nm ‘Tour’ models will be OK for light riders/use, and the more powerful and better geared ‘Grand Tour’ models much better for heavier/hillier duties in Sheffield. These can invariably be found at good discount rates with a bit of searching, but as I said before – it is definitely advisable to buy local!
The Halfords Crossfuse with similar capability to the basic Motus looks good value if you can negotiate the ‘extras’ like lights, mudguards and a rack fitted to most other models.
Note that Halfords and Raleigh have teamed up to launch what appears to be the entry level Motus models badged as the Raleigh ‘Felix’, which may at least make it easy to get hold of, and of course means you can enjoy your Cycling UK/Halfords discount, and they now offer a free 48 hr trial period so you can assess whether the Bosch Active + motor power will offset the poor 7 speed gear range.
The new Shimano powered Volt Regent looks like a particularly strong and comfy step- through at the price.
Cube bikes such as the relaxed ‘sit up and beg’ style Cube Town sport or the sportier/fast commute Cube Touring Hybrid have always been an especially high value way into Bosch powered e-bike action, and my current one has served me well for 2000+ miles. (Both links show the ‘Trapeze’ style frame – a sort of half-way house between the standard crossbar frame and the deep step through type – best of both worlds in my view – accessible for all sorts of shape and size riders but still a strong efficient frame.) Cube also make a ‘Cross’ model. I’m not sure how ‘offroad’ it is spec-wise beyond having knobbly tyres, but it does have suitable mudguards for those tyres, also lights and fittings for a rear rack, so will be a good Utility bike with light trail capability.
Recycle bikes in Sheffield sell and service ebikes, and their Gepida Alboin, in trapeze or diamond frame, is a useful combination of the excellent Shimano Alfine hub gears (a worthwhile step up from the Nexus hub with more positive shifting) and nicely strong ‘Performance Line’ Bosch motor. Their Turisind model gives you a good upright, step through ‘Dutch’ style town bike.
Local firm Forme offer the very well specced, high value and powerful Peak Trail model which looks great and will tackle just about anything.
Check out less expensive but reputable makes online, e.g. the Kudos or Woosh bikes mentioned above, both offer basic but good value well equipped bikes, and reasonably priced (£300 ish) replacement batteries. I have in the past used a Woosh e-bike for local/utility duties, bought online, and which has performed well enough, if not as refined as more expensive ones, and mine continues to give good service towing a friends trailer full of gardening tools around!
My old Woosh being a van!
Here are a few ideas for the sort of ‘Dutch style’ super comfy/easy access (mostly step through) but still very capable sort of bike that should work well around Sheffield.– https://www.orbea.com/gb-en/ebikes/leisure/optima-comfort/cat/optima-comfort-30– https://ebiketips.road.cc/content/reviews/electric-city-bikes/volt-regent-1915– http://recyclebikes.co.uk/shop/gepida-turisind-1000-alfine-8/– https://www.cube.eu/en/2020/e-bikes/urban/urban/ella-hybrid/cube-ella-ride-hybrid-500-rednwhite-2020-easy-entry/– https://www.cube.eu/en/2020/e-bikes/urban/comfort/town-sport-hybrid/cube-town-sport-hybrid-one-500-blackngrey-2020-easy-entry/– https://www.trekbikes.com/gb/en_GB/bikes/hybrid-bikes/electric-hybrid-bikes/um-series/um3-stagger/p/25152/?colorCode=bluedark– https://voltbikes.co.uk/e-bikes/classic/swift– https://www.jejamescycles.com/ktm-macina-eight-p5-500w-e-bike.html (not disc brakes but still good ones)In the same vein, Halfords are currently selling their basic Bosch powered Crosspath at a discount, and it should be fine in Sheffield for lighter riders and duties.Finally some of the new ‘mid weight’ e-bikes metioned in section 5 look to be powerful enough and sufficiently geared for hilly use, if not such big load bearers.
21. Servicing and repairs locally:
On a mid to higher price bike look for a minimum 2 year guarantee on the battery and electric motor, and you might wish to take into account the price of a second or replacement battery if you are considering keeping the bike a long time.
Buying e-bikes second-hand can be risky because of battery/electrical issues and potentially higher general wear and tear. Unless you are very confident around e-bikes, go for one of the many good new e-bikes out there suitable for different pockets and/or use a finance option.
General Note:. Unless otherwise stated, brands/models/dealers are mentioned here because of familiarity whilst reading around the subject, their locality, or their likely good value and suitability for use in our area, rather than a personal recommendation, and, as they say, in examples of particular brands or companies in the links given, other brands are available….
So go on – free your wallet and your spirit and give e-biking a go, but research well and then see/try bikes and dealers out for yourself.
Richard Attwood. Sheffield.
If you have any questions, comments or would like to share your experience of e-biking, mail me at: